Sunday, March 29, 2009

World Cup Qualifier

4$ tickets to go see an Egypt v. Zambia qualifying match for the World Cup? Why not. I realized on my way to the match that I had no idea where exactly in Africa Zambia was, other than it wasn't in the North, probably in the East we concluded.. We got to the stadium about 2 and 1/2 hours before the match started, which gave me ample time to grade quizzes, soak in the scene, get an Egyptian flag painted on my face, and decline the multitude of junk that coming by for sale for "Egyptian brice."  The match was decent, Egypt was by far the better team, and played well in the first half with a solid goal, but then let up a little in the second only to let a lucky header in from Zambia to tie the match. The angst and priceless crowd reactions continued until the end. The stadium was about 100,000 capacity, and was basically filled. It was fun doing the wave as it went around, and the stadium went nuts after the first goal. 

After the first goal.

The cheers were also pretty easy to follow. Clap clap clap clap, musri! (Egypt!)

Opa ee... opa ah... inshallah haneksib (we will win God-Willing)



These dudes were wearing one-piece suits that were in all different colors. This was the military section. We saw them get trucked in. Go figure. 

Taking a pause from grading quizzes to take a picture.. 

Friday, March 27, 2009

friday noon anecdote

I realized it as soon as I stepped foot out of my apartment on the way to pick up some ta'mayya sandwiches. The prayer was going off and it was noon on friday.  Although prayers go off five times a day, the Friday prayer at noon, the Ju'muah is obligatory for all men to perform. It had slipped my mind, that absolutely everything is closed during this time. As an outsider, it is incredible to witness the sense of community that comes about from this; every male leaves his apartment, and prays together in the mosque, or in the street. Blocks upon blocks are filled with lines of people listening to the sermon. As a whole, the aSalaam alaykum's (peace be with you) have a wonderful purpose, and the prayer is an excellent bind to keep oneself on the right track. 

Thursday, March 26, 2009

Sports Day

Today was Sports Day at the school and I have a sunburnt face. In all, it was a wonderful break from the classroom. Especially because my students have become completely unmanageable when they do not feel like being taught (most of the time), so this was a good chance to enjoy some good competitions with them. It was a bit like being a counselor back in camp, but then add the "Mr. that's not fair" attitude, which happened in about half of the games, and most definitely stems from a student's/this age group's constant need to push against authority. Nevertheless, the tears (after winning a relay and being told by the judge that we came in 2nd), the injuries (one boy badly sprained his wrist after the long jump), and the enthusiasm for having fun outdoors were all there, with the chance to view teachers as something other than menacing sources of supremacy. For the school, image is particularly important, hence why we missed almost 4 periods of class two days before just to "rehearse" for sports day, the location of the event in a lush club, practice time and stress on the cheers and "sports day song" (a version of "we are the champions") and a slew of emails and emphasis on sports day procedure. I guess it makes sense, this is the school's one big day with all of the grades. 
Each grade, 1 through 6, is divided into four houses, Red Indians, Blue Vikings, Green Pharoahs, and Yellow Aztecs. For primary six, we competed in a relay race, a balance race, an obstacle course, the long jump, soccer, baseball, a zig-zag race, and a sprint. I was the leader for the blue vikings. 


Mohamed, the last photo evidence of him in good condition before he landed on his wrist.. 
A surprise of everyone doing the warm-up exercise/also a sweet dance move (we do this every day for the morning lines, and I am usually the only one doing it for primary six, but in front of the parents the kids feel the need to perform..)

Teacher picture

Outside the club. If it weren't for technology it would be a harsh desert. This is exemplary of a trend of Cairo life, if you can afford to move out, you do. Up rise developments beyond developments, shopping malls, sports clubs (like this one), and the exclusion of Baladi (popular culture) life. 

Soon, more fun out of the classroom things are coming up. I will be going on a 4 night 5 day field trip to an ecolodge in the Sinai Peninsula with my class. I am excited/dreading it. 

Monday, March 16, 2009

My turf

It's always nice to have visitors, obviously for their company, but also because it throws a healthy splash of perspective on a city that one can view as their own. Drew flew in last week on Wednesday morning around quarter to three in the morning, and after picking him up and navigating my way from each of the three terminals. Two more hours of sleep, then off to school for me, and I sent him off with Hany to see the Egyptian museum, and then met up after school. Grabbed a quick beer at Horreya (my favorite cheap british expat bar), then headed off to the Islamic part of Cairo: Al-Azhar Mosque, al Azhar park, and a shisha in Khan Khalili (the place where there was the bombing - there is now a metal detector to go through to enter the area), and then went to this really cool sufi dancing concert. Great lively drumming and whirling dervishes. 



The next day, Drew came to school. It was hilarious. The children were all excited to see another American like myself, and they all called him Mr. Andrew. They were actually behaved for once. It was nice, and maybe they learned something.. 

The next day, we took off to the pyramids, rolling out of bed around 2 from a solid night before. Characteristic of Egyptian rules - or those that are in place to be broken such as "leave your camera at the door when you go inside pyramid," I brought my camera in the pyramid which lead to this epic shot.. 


Inside the coffin of the second pyramid.
The night then went on to see the dirtiest funk band probably to ever grace the Middle East, and definitely the best live music that I have seen yet in Cairo, at the Cairo Jazz club. 

The last day we checked out the 1973 war panorama. An enjoyable visit to a museum that was created by the North Koreans to show Egypt's might over Israel when they stormed across the Suez canal and decimated Israel. I love objective history.

Monday, March 9, 2009

Dahab



It was a pretty last minute decision really. I had enrolled in a six day night course, "the Art of Living" from the first to the sixth of March, which ended on a Friday night. The course itself was an out there hippy course centered around breathing, self-awareness, and meditation, and from it I gained much more relaxation, clarity of mind, and a much better appreciation for the "now" of things. So when Ceci told me she was going to Dahab until Monday, leaving Friday (an hour after the end of my course), I hopped on East Delta bus with her and her cousin and met up with three others. Thank you Prophet Mohamed for having a birthday going by the lunar schedule the surprises us with a four (rather than 3) day weekend. 

In the end, I only slept in Dahab one night, and stayed for two full days, (I left early with some others in our group, saving climbing Mount Sinai for another time) but I can full-heartedly say that Dahab is a place that I will absolutely come back to. The snorkeling yesterday at the blue hole was the coolest thing I have ever seen in the water, and scratching the tip of the iceberg of how much there is to see in these incredible reefs; 20 different types of colorful fish, the nooks and crannies of the reef, with fish darting around the holes, the precipice into the clear clear blue sea... 

I wrote a lot, here are some of my entries

"Dahab. The wind blowing from Saudi Arabia. Fog on the horizon. Yesterday we landed at 8 from a midnight bus ride. An immediate escape, backed by mountains, warm, strikingly clear waters. We biked South to a point, snorkeled at the blue lagoon. The teal blue rock with small bushes for darting striped fish, some sleeping by facing the strong current. A night of drunk promenades, snagged some ice cream on the way back after winning both games in pool (a surprise) before a pizza to end it. It's a place I know I will come back to. The chill vibes, the good people. A life of relaxation. For 30 pounds there is transport up to the blue hole, along with snorkeling gear. But I have to finish my coconut milkshake first." 


(The first thing I wrote)
"Written with a pen from Commerce bank
Kittens on my food, escape the Cairo stank
Saudi Arabia starin back at me
building broken glass from the Dahab Red Sea
Sinai in the future, moses in the past
Desert mountains part the sea, the present that will last
Whatever will? Let it be.
It's the music and the muses that will set us free.
Religion to confuse it,
Extremes to abuse it,
However you choose it,
There's always a way to lose it.
Positively, there's the heavy trodden path.
Good people and the life who are never looking back.
(at this point a dude who booked tours at our hotel came over, which prompted this..)
Ya momo, ente raggal kwayyis
Bil A3ribee, ente sau3bee mish rayyis.
Zahma kiteer fi'l Qahirah
Lakin fee Dahab, mafish mishkila

(hey Mohamed, you are a good man
in Arabic, you're my friend not the waiter
There's a lot of traffic in Cairo,
but in Dahab, there is no problem!)

Saudi Arabia on the Horizon


Taken from hotel Jasmine, the mountains behind us.