Thursday, September 4, 2008

My turf

So now I am moved in to the part of town in Cairo that is called Heliopolis. It is perfect for my situation, because it is the closest part of Cairo to the Green Valley School, which is in a suburb that is basically in the desert with not much other than residential life. I found a roommate pretty randomly, but quite easily. He is Norwegian and will be studying intensive Arabic at the AUC (American University in Cairo). This is good because it means that I will be able to practice Arabic with him, and he is also like me in a lot of ways. Especially in his enjoyment and interest for genuine parts of a country, large group of friends, shamelessness in speaking Arabic, and insistence on finding cheap street meat. 

This is a quieter part of town, but it still has elements that seem to be throughout Cairo. Cats everywhere, like everywhere. Lots of trash on the street and sidewalk. Crossing the street is like playing the computer game frogger. Basically, you can't cross all in one go. You need to advance a little bit once there is space in the first lane, let the traffic pass, and then make it to the other side inshallah (Arabic for God Willing). There is still lots of honking, but in our neighborhood, it is quieter, and there are plenty of trees. Some old buildings, lots of unfinished buildings, lots of shops everywhere. You can turn street corners and see old men smoking shisha playing backgammon, and then turn another street corner to find markets of all types - meat, fruit and vegetables, bakeries, general stores, cameras, appliance shops, pharmacies, wicker chairs, barbershops, restaurants, everything. 

Now it is Ramadan, so people have been fasting all day, and that means that at around 6 o clock once iftah happens, which is when they can break fast, everyone comes out after about a 15 minute citywide lull. It is incredible, everyone fasts, so during this time the traffic diminishes about 95%. Even the Christians fast out of respect - or at least aren't visible during this time. It also means that at night, the streets are packed with people, and everything is alive. I'm not sure if I can credit Ramadan for this vivacity or if it just happens all of the time, but either way, it is a true show of life here. 



Here you can see the nearest Square to me, Midan Ismaliya. In the middle of the street you can see the tram tracks, and the trams are ridable for .05$. 

 This is my street, Qambis street. My apartment is basically behind the right end of the tree on the left. 
This is the courtyard view from the stairwell in my apartment.
Another view from Qambis street going towards the square.

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